Anthony Gismondi: B.C. wineries can learn from France on staying relevant
B.C. wineries can learn from France on staying relevant

Spending a week in France always refreshes the wine soul, even as the global wine powerhouse navigates shifting currents. The French wine sector is contracting, but the situation is not as alarming as it sounds. Consumption has been declining for decades. In 1975, the French consumed over 100 litres of wine per person annually; by 2023, that figure had dropped to 45 litres. While still high by global standards, it is moving toward more moderate European consumption levels.

Retail trends and consumer habits

Retail trends mirror this decline. In August 2025, Wine Intelligence reported that sales of wine in French large-scale retail fell 7 per cent compared to 2023. Yet France remains one of the world's largest wine-consuming nations, drinking an average of 2.1 million bottles of still wine daily.

Walking through Paris, Orange, and Narbonne, visiting brasseries and cafés, one is struck by the richness of French producers on wine lists. Even though selections are sparse by North American standards and appellations are limited, there is a devoted focus on a handful of famous French appellations that have built a reputation for quality and consistency over decades.

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French wine list dynamics

In Paris, Sancerre, Chablis, Alsace, Burgundy, Bordeaux, and Beaujolais dominate lists, often from lesser-known producers, priced between 30 and 65 Euros, with Champagne at the top end. Terroir and place matter more than grape or producer. High-end, expensive wines are abundant in upscale establishments. In the Rhone Valley and Languedoc, wine lists are almost exclusively local, prompting outsiders to consult their phones for information. Wine service remains unpretentious, with patrons often pouring their own wine after the initial opening.

Rise of white wines and sustainability

A clear trend is the prominence of white wines on lists across France, along with organic, biodynamic, and sustainable offerings. Climate change and consumer demand are driving this shift, noticeable to informed drinkers.

Lessons for British Columbia

How does this translate to the B.C. experience? If French wine can become more drinkable, honest, and self-aware, B.C. wineries should humbly pursue similar goals to stay relevant. The province is on the path to attracting new consumers and consolidating its story, but much work remains. The next step is to highlight B.C.'s villages of production. By connecting the home of the vines to the wines in the bottle, touchstones are built that help consumers become more informed and better connected to local wines.

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