If you’ve been on social media lately, you’ve likely seen posts from folks about their desire to only buy clothing made from “natural fibers.” Meaning, items made from 100% cotton, linen, silk or wool — and not clothing made of synthetic fibers such as polyester. People have many reasons for making the switch. Some are doing it for comfort, while others are doing it to protect the environment, to follow a “non-toxic” lifestyle or just to avoid the plastics that are inherent to polyester.
Yet, none of this is black and white, experts stressed. Natural fibers like cotton are not all good and synthetic fibers like polyester are not all bad.
Polyester: A Plastic Fiber
It is true that polyester is plastic, said Meagan Phipps, a textile designer and critic in the textiles department at the Rhode Island School of Design. “It’s a plastic fiber,” Phipps said. Polyester is made of a common plastic known as polyethylene terephthalate (PET). To make polyester, manufacturers take PET chips, melt them down and extrude them through a device that looks like a shower head, she explained. The liquefied polyester can be textured to mimic other fibers such as cotton, then turned into dresses or workout shorts.
Environmental Impact of Polyester
Polyester has a big impact on the environment. “Polyester is the most-produced fiber internationally,” said Phipps. “Seventy-seven million tons were produced just in 2024 alone.” She noted that the move away from polyester is partly due to the fiber itself and mass consumption. “We can’t really talk about polyester, and really about the clothing industry at all, without talking about mass consumption,” she added.
Polyester is inexpensive, allowing people to buy it at high rates. It’s now common for people to buy one-time use going-out tops or new dresses for every formal occasion, a habit that wasn’t common decades ago. “Because of this hunger in our economy for having access to fast fashion and the ability to consume, price is a really critical component,” Phipps said. These items need to be cheap for people to buy more and more.
It’s estimated that 66% of discarded clothing and textiles ends up in landfills, and polyester takes over 300 years to biodegrade. When textiles break down in landfills, they emit greenhouse gases and potentially forever chemicals if treated with sweat-resistant or stain-resistant chemicals, polluting air and water. Research shows people living near landfills are more likely to have health issues like asthma and cancer.
The Cotton Conundrum
Cotton also has a significant environmental impact. “Cotton is, after polyester, the second-largest fiber produced globally. I think in 2024, 24 million tons were produced,” said Phipps. Conventional cotton, the most widely grown variety, has been genetically engineered for whiter color and higher yields, but relies heavily on irrigation and pesticides. For example, it takes 7,500 to 10,000 liters of water to make the cotton for one pair of jeans, equivalent to the drinking water one person needs over 10 years.
Cotton requires a lot of water and has a long growing season. Many growing regions lack robust drinking water infrastructure, and the pesticides used can contaminate soil and water, damaging communities. Organic or eco-focused cotton can be a better alternative but isn’t accessible to everyone. “I think the more we grow awareness, the more we can try to support organic cotton,” Phipps said. However, eco-friendly fibers are often more costly. Blends, like organic cotton with synthetic materials, may be more affordable.
Benefits of Polyester
Polyester became popular in the 1950s for its benefits. “Polyesters gained a lot of praise ... because unlike cotton and other materials, they were really wrinkle-resistant,” said Kelly Dobos, a cosmetic chemist. Polyester is hydrophobic, repelling water and resisting stains, which can improve garment longevity. It is also more affordable and easier to maintain than natural fibers.
“In some ways, there are these benefits to these fibers, and when we think about sustainability and environmental cases for different materials, I think it’s really less driven by whether a fiber is natural or synthetic, but there’s all these other concerns that go into it,” Dobos said, citing farming practices, water consumption, and garment lifespan.
Microplastics and Health Concerns
Polyester is plastic, so microplastics are a concern. Every wash releases microplastics. “You can really think about polyester the same way you would think about single-use plastics. It has a lot of the same environmental implications,” Phipps said. Innovations include more biodegradable polyester and fabrics made from recycled plastics.
Microplastics are known to harm aquatic life and have been found in human brain, liver, and blood. Whether they impact health is debated. A small study linked higher microplastic levels to increased risk of stroke and heart attack, but the FDA states current evidence does not show a risk to human health. “We are still looking into the science of this,” Dobos said. Social media claims linking polyester to cancer and hormone disruption are not proven, according to toxicologist Ryan Marino.
Making Sustainable Choices
Ultimately, clothing choices depend on budget, lifestyle, and preferences. “For me, I don’t like to see someone’s choices be degraded or treated in a way that makes them feel bad,” said Dobos. Sustainable options include buying recycled polyester products or shopping secondhand, not just new organic cotton alternatives.
