An existential moment high above the desert sands of Dubai set in motion a remarkable journey back to Quebec roots, culminating in one of Montreal's most popular new craft beer destinations. Cousins Alex and Ethan Wills have transformed a moment of corporate alienation into the thriving Wills microbrewery and adjoining bar in the city's Mile-Ex neighbourhood.
A Dubai Epiphany Leads to a Quebec Homecoming
Several years ago, Alex Wills was living and working as an oil industry executive on the 82nd floor of the Burj Khalifa, the world's tallest building. Staring out from his sealed window, a profound sense of disconnection struck him. "I felt quite alienated from my roots," Alex recalled. "I was as far as I could imagine from where I grew up." That place was rural western Quebec, near Shawville, where he and his cousin Ethan spent their early years.
That 2018 moment of clarity prompted Alex to quit his job and return to Quebec. It reignited conversations with Ethan about a long-hinted-at dream: starting their own brewery. Their paths had diverged sharply. While Alex pursued science and international business, Ethan immersed himself in Montreal's vibrant restaurant scene for two decades, managing notable Mile End establishments like Sparrow, Larry's, and Lawrence.
Building "Big-Tent" Craft Beer in Mile-Ex
The cousins seized their opportunity. They found a location on Esplanade Avenue in Mile-Ex, the former site of Alexandraplatz Bar and the old Brasserie du Vieux Montréal. Pulling together a group of investors, they spent about two-and-a-half years renovating the space themselves, often ending workdays by "smashing some beers." The bar opened first, with their own brews following in the summer of 2023.
Their philosophy defies the extremes of some craft beer trends. "We entered the industry thinking there would be a return to something that was more reliable, consistent, and made from tried-and-true recipes," Ethan explained. They aim for "big-tent craft beer"—complex enough for connoisseurs but balanced and accessible for newcomers. "We want our beers to be expressive but never out of tune," Ethan said, avoiding "melt-your-face hop bombs" in favour of versatile brews suited for food pairing or solo enjoyment.
The strategy is a resounding success. Wills beers are now sold in more than 350 locations across Quebec, including bars, restaurants, grocery stores, and specialty dépanneurs. Their reach is expanding beyond provincial borders, with exports beginning this past spring to Europe, Alberta, and Manitoba.
Complementary Skills and Community Roots
The cousins credit their strong partnership and complementary skills for their rapid growth. "Alex comes from a scientific background academically and professionally, I come from a more humanities and arts background," Ethan noted. "But at the same time, Alex has a very strong creative impulse, and I also have a maddening drive toward precision and order."
They have embedded themselves in Montreal's cultural fabric, becoming the beer sponsor for the indie music festival Pop Montreal and hosting events on their terrace. For Alex, the career change from the high-stakes oil world to the brewery floor has been deeply fulfilling. "We're in the business of making people happy," he said. "Serving beers to people, the customers have a smile on their faces... It feels like we're doing the right thing." From the 82nd floor of a global icon to the heart of a Montreal neighbourhood, the Wills cousins have crafted a success story that is authentically their own.
