In Ottawa's west-end neighbourhood of Crystal Beach, a new sandwich shop is generating buzz with its unconventional approach to New York-style deli classics. Uncle Carmine's New York Sandwich Shop, located at 2 Ullswater Drive, is the latest venture from seasoned Ottawa restaurateur Les Richenhaller.
A Divergence from Deli Tradition
Having been in operation for almost seven months, Uncle Carmine's immediately sets itself apart with its smoked meat offerings. Rather than serving them on traditional rye bread, all four of its smoked meat sandwiches are presented on panini. While this choice may raise eyebrows among purists, the panini themselves are a highlight, baked in-house to a fresh and fluffy perfection.
The shop's classic sandwich sticks to the basics with just smoked meat and mustard. The Reuben adds Swiss cheese and sauerkraut, staying relatively traditional. However, the "Big Bambino" and the "'74 Lincoln" sandwiches venture into more controversial territory. The Big Bambino includes pickled vegetables, roasted red peppers, dressing, and arugula, while the '74 Lincoln swaps the pickled veg for Sriracha.
From Arugula Controversy to Culinary Consensus
An initial visit by a reviewer revealed a Reuben topped with arugula, a garnishing choice described as a step too far for a smoked meat traditionalist. Richenhaller acknowledges his approach is not purist, stating he is "all about giving a different experience."
Fortunately, subsequent visits revealed a shop with much more to offer than divisive greens. The sandwiches are generously loaded with slow-roasted meats, which Richenhaller roasts himself instead of relying on pre-sliced cold cuts. The Brooklyn beef sandwich, with its slow-roasted beef, caramelized onions, and array of toppings, was a moist and flavourful success. The Korean chicken sandwich, available with or without kimchi, delivered a complex and satisfying kick. A Cubano sandwich was also praised for perfectly executing the classic combination of pork, ham, cheese, and pickles.
Beyond Meat: Solid Clubs and Vegan Delights
Club sandwiches at Uncle Carmine's are another reliable choice, with both the classic and a curried version receiving positive marks. Perhaps most notably, the shop demonstrates a strong commitment to its vegan customers.
Richenhaller has created a full lineup of plant-based options that have been deemed eminently tasty by both vegan and carnivore diners. These include vegan club and curried club sandwiches that use textured soy protein and tempeh bacon. There is also a vegan iteration of the Korean chicken sandwich. For those preferring whole foods over meat substitutes, a sandwich featuring roasted beet, sweet potato, red onion, tomato, and arugula with a dairy-free dill dressing is available.
Despite its unassuming location in a Carling Avenue strip mall, Uncle Carmine's proves itself to be a destination-worthy sandwich shop. Its foundation of house-baked bread, responsibly sourced fillings, and a seasoned operator gives it real pull, making it a welcome addition to Ottawa's west-end food scene.
