Vancouver's Angela Pastificio and Giusti Excel in Pasta Comfort, Says Critic
Renowned restaurant critic Mia Stainsby has highlighted two pasta-focused establishments in Vancouver, Angela Pastificio and Giusti, as must-visit destinations for those seeking culinary comfort. In a recent review, Stainsby emphasizes how these restaurants, which opened last year, deliver on the promise of well-crafted pasta that serves as a therapeutic and irresistible distraction during the winter months.
Angela Pastificio: A Story of Heritage and Handmade Excellence
Located at 1869 Powell Street in Vancouver, Angela Pastificio operates for dinner from Wednesday to Saturday. The restaurant is named after owner-chef Calvin Vogstad's late grandmother, whose Italian parents immigrated to Canada during a time of prevalent racism, leading them to sever their cultural ties. Vogstad is now dedicated to recovering this lost heritage, drawing inspiration from his grandmother's unwavering belief in him.
After training for six years under Adam Pegg at La Quercia, a respected pasta-making mentor, Vogstad is well-prepared for this endeavor. He recently traveled to Pietragalla, the town his great-grandparents left, to deepen his connection to his roots. At Angela Pastificio, Vogstad and co-chef Nolan Bayliss, another La Quercia alumnus, offer an intimate dining experience with an eight-course tasting menu priced at $98.
This menu includes antipasti, a salad, five handmade pasta dishes, and dessert. Vogstad works in a pass, creating each evening's pasta using simple tools like boards for ridges, cutters with straight or squiggly lines, and imprint stamps. Each pasta dough is customized, reflecting what Vogstad describes as "knowledge and passion" and a form of storytelling that honors the origins of the dishes.
Diners can expect starters such as a salumi board with cured meats, white anchovies, pickled vegetables, and burrata, followed by a wintry salad featuring roasted squashes, radicchio, escarole, and pumpkin seeds. The pasta selection is particularly noteworthy, with offerings like tortellini alla panna filled with mortadella, prosciutto, ricotta, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and nutmeg in a cream sauce, and fazzoletti with pesto trapanese, a Sicilian pesto made from almonds and tomatoes.
Other highlights include pappardelle with veal sweetbreads, wild mushrooms, brandy, and Marsala, and spizzulus, a firm, chewy pasta from Sardinia shaped like loop earrings, served with lamb ragu. A permanent menu item is the Raviolo Ottimo, a single large raviolo filled with veal, Swiss chard, Parmigiano, ricotta, and an egg yolk, all in a rich brown sauce.
Giusti: A Daily Destination for Pasta Lovers
Giusti, situated at 209 East Sixth Avenue in Vancouver, serves dinner daily. While specific details about its offerings are less elaborated in the review, it is praised alongside Angela Pastificio for its focus on well-made pasta that provides a comforting experience. The bar area at Giusti is noted as part of its inviting atmosphere.
Stainsby suggests that pasta, with its carbohydrates and serotonin-boosting properties, acts as a "warm, comforting hug" during the winter season. Both restaurants are commended for their chefs' obsession with achieving an irresistible sweet spot in pasta preparation, making them ideal spots for those seeking solace in food.
In summary, Angela Pastificio and Giusti stand out in Vancouver's culinary scene for their dedication to handmade pasta, rooted in tradition and personal stories. Whether it's the heritage-driven approach at Angela Pastificio or the daily comfort at Giusti, these restaurants deliver on the promise of pasta as a source of joy and comfort, as endorsed by critic Mia Stainsby.
