Hairstylists have a unique perspective on hair care, seeing the consequences of common mistakes daily. They share the rules they never break to maintain healthy hair for themselves and their clients.
Applying Conditioner at the Roots
Many people apply conditioner from roots to ends, but Tatum Neill, creative director for Aveda Arts & Sciences Institutes, advises the opposite. "Ideally, it's almost like shampoo and conditioner should be applied in opposite," Neill said. Shampoo targets the scalp where dirt and oil accumulate, while conditioner should focus on the ends, which are prone to dryness and damage. The scalp already produces natural sebum, making additional conditioner unnecessary at the roots.
Skipping Conditioner Altogether
Ash Therese, salon director at The Bird House Salon in New York, never shampoos without adding moisture back. She compares it to moisturizing skin and emphasizes that even fine hair can benefit from the right product. For color-treated hair, conditioning is even more critical. She avoids two-in-one shampoo-conditioner products, calling them unsuitable for clients or herself.
Only Using Sulfate-Free Shampoo
Titi Bello, hair coach and founder of Ori Lifestyle, warns against exclusively using sulfate-free shampoos. While they are gentler, sulfates provide a deep clean that can resolve scalp issues like flakiness. She notes that sulfates were wrongly linked to cancer, but studies have disproven this. For those without irritation, alternating between sulfate and sulfate-free shampoos is ideal.
Skipping Heat Protectant
Shantel Keeley, co-owner of Platinum Salon, stresses heat protection as a non-negotiable. "Heat damage is irreversible," she said. She uses Magic Myst, a heat protectant and leave-in conditioner, and advises checking expiration dates on products, as effectiveness diminishes over time.
Not Drying Roots First When Blow-Drying
Neill recommends drying hair from roots to ends. If ends are dried first, moisture from roots can rewet them, leading to extra heat exposure and potential damage. Focusing on roots also helps achieve the desired style.
Skimping on Product Quality
Therese warns that cheap hot tools, like $15 blow-dry brushes, can cause significant breakage due to overheating and poor airflow. She advises researching products, as price often reflects quality control.
Turning Hot Tools to Maximum Temperature
Keeley recommends keeping curling irons and straighteners at 350°F or lower. High heat can toast hair, causing irreversible damage. Prevention is key to maintaining hair health.
Relying on Heavy Tension Styles
Nikka Whisenhunt, a natural hair stylist and trichology specialist, avoids tight braids and weaves that stress the hair shaft and follicles, potentially leading to hair loss over time. Bello agrees, noting that hair ages and weakens, so she now wears braids only once a year instead of frequently.
Ignoring Maintenance
Whisenhunt ensures clients stay on schedule with trims, deep conditioning, and scalp care. Regular maintenance keeps hair healthy regardless of chemical treatments like highlights.
By following these expert tips, you can avoid common pitfalls and keep your hair in optimal condition.
