An intimate Ottawa restaurant is making waves with a tasting menu that reads like a love letter to its chef's favourite ingredients. Perch, located on Preston Street, is captivating diners under the guidance of chef-owner Justin Champagne-Lagarde.
A Culinary Journey Through a Chef's Favourites
The experience begins with a question of nomenclature. A recent dinner opened with a masterful presentation of Acadian sturgeon, featuring smoked pieces of the fish elevated by two distinct sturgeon-based sauces. The presence of framed sturgeon skin on the wall further cemented the ingredient's importance, momentarily making one wonder if the restaurant was named for the wrong fish.
However, as the nine-course blind tasting menu unfolded in mid-December, each subsequent star ingredient proved its worth. The parade of expertly prepared dishes included Arctic char, sweetbreads, quail, black cod, venison, and duck, each showcasing Champagne-Lagarde's creative and precise touch.
Evolution of an Ottawa Gem
Since its review in early 2022, shortly after opening in a narrow 22-seat space that was once a pizzeria, Perch has refined its craft. The restaurant, which released a cookbook in fall 2025 documenting its journey, is now considered even stronger.
The dishes demonstrate greater sophistication and leave a more significant impression, particularly for those who seek out layered umami flavours. The casual atmosphere has become a defining strength, complemented by service that feels warmer, more personable, and assured. This evolution helps explain why Perch earned the 95th spot on the prestigious Canada's 100 Best Restaurants list last year, with many arguing it deserves an even higher ranking.
The Team Behind the Experience
The personal touch is evident throughout the meal. Plates are often delivered by general manager Amanda MacIntosh or by Champagne-Lagarde himself from the open kitchen. Bar manager Shannon Marshall, who joined in spring 2022, is another pivotal figure.
Marshall curates savvy beverage pairings for $100, offering alcoholic, non-alcoholic, or a hybrid of both. He also crafts distinctive cocktails ($17-$20) and mocktails ($14-$15) that align with the restaurant's philosophy. Notably, his cocktails forego citrus to minimize waste and support Canadian sourcing, and he creatively repurposes kitchen scraps into drink components, championing sustainability.
Ultimately, whether named for a perch or not, Ottawa diners can be grateful that Justin Champagne-Lagarde's acclaimed and special restaurant has made its home on Preston Street.
