At a recent event promoting his Make America Healthy Again campaign, Health and Human Services Secretary Robert F. Kennedy Jr. advised Americans to opt for "cheap cuts" of meat, such as liver, in response to escalating beef prices across the nation.
Kennedy's Recommendation Sparks Debate
During the MAHA campaign event, Kennedy stated, "If you buy a Porterhouse steak or a strip steak, it is gonna set you back. You can buy liver or the cheaper cuts of steak that are very, very affordable." This suggestion has raised eyebrows, as liver is not a staple in most American diets and is often considered an acquired taste.
Experts highlight the irony of Kennedy's advice in a country grappling with affordability issues. While the wealthiest Americans benefit from tax cuts, lower-income individuals face reductions in Medicaid and Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) funding, exacerbating food insecurity.
Health Benefits and Risks of Liver
Dietitians acknowledge that liver can be a nutrient-dense food when consumed in moderation. Sam Previte, a registered dietitian and founder of Find Food Freedom, notes, "Liver can absolutely be a nutrient-dense food. It’s rich in protein, iron, vitamin A, B12, folate and many other micronutrients."
However, there are significant health risks associated with excessive consumption. Abbey Roberts, a registered dietitian and owner of Fork Diet Culture, warns that liver's high levels of vitamin A and copper can lead to toxicity if eaten daily or multiple times a week. Symptoms of vitamin A toxicity include nausea, headaches, bone pain, and in severe cases, liver damage and vision issues. Copper toxicity can cause nausea, vomiting, diarrhea, and abdominal pain.
Heart Disease and Cholesterol Concerns
Clara Nosek, a registered dietitian nutritionist, points out that liver is high in dietary cholesterol, which may be problematic for individuals with heart disease risk factors. Kennedy's advocacy for saturated fats, including beef tallow and whole milk, adds to the controversy, as diets high in saturated fats are linked to increased heart disease risk.
The American Heart Association recommends limiting red meat and full-fat dairy to manage cholesterol levels, further complicating Kennedy's suggestion.
Practical and Cultural Barriers
Liver is not only unpopular but also challenging to prepare. Nosek explains that it often requires soaking in milk to reduce bitterness, a technique unfamiliar to many home cooks. Roberts adds, "Personally, I don’t know a lot of people that are super stoked about wanting to eat liver... I don’t know how many people are going to be wanting to add this to their weekly meal plan."
Nosek criticizes the recommendation as "intellectually offensive," noting that it assumes culinary skills and time wealth that many Americans lack. She also highlights the irony of Kennedy endorsing liver while the current administration has deregulated meat processing and reduced safety inspections.
Alternative Affordable Protein Sources
Dietitians suggest more accessible and familiar protein options for those concerned about food costs. Kathleen Meehan, a registered dietitian, recommends plant-based proteins like beans and tofu, which are affordable and versatile. Previte adds that shelf-stable options such as lentils, canned tuna, salmon, and nut butters are culturally familiar and easier to incorporate into diets.
Previte emphasizes, "Telling everyone to just eat liver is a very interesting narrowed-lens nutrition statement. Nutrition recommendations must be realistic, rooted in evidence-based science, and consider average consumer preferences."
Broader Implications and Public Reaction
Kennedy's comments have been met with criticism, with some comparing him to Marie Antoinette. Rep. Nikki Budzinski (D-Illinois) posted an image on social media depicting Kennedy as Marie Antoinette with the caption "let them eat liver." This sentiment reflects public frustration over the disconnect between government officials and everyday struggles with rising grocery prices.
Meehan notes, "The recommendation may feel insensitive given the steps our government has taken to reduce access to a wide variety of foods. With rising costs of food, SNAP cuts and food apartheid, the suggestion to 'eat liver' feels unhelpful for many."
Previte concludes that health is influenced by multiple factors beyond nutrition, including social circumstances, medical care, and political climate. "Our social circumstances impact our health more than our nutrition," she says, urging a more holistic approach to addressing food affordability and public health.
